Cross the Ewaso Nyiro and the cast changes: reticulated giraffe instead of Maasai giraffe, Grevy’s zebra with their pinstripes, beisa oryx, Somali ostrich and the gerenuk standing on its hind legs to browse. That is the Northern Five, and the paired reserves of Samburu and Buffalo Springs are the best place in Kenya to collect all of them.
Then the loop closes through Meru, the emptiest big-game park in the country, where thirteen rivers keep the grass green and the fenced sanctuary makes rhino close to a certainty. Six days, no doubled roads, no leg longer than five hours, and barely another vehicle after day one.
North around Mount Kenya and into the red-earth country of Samburu, with an afternoon game drive along the Ewaso Nyiro river.
Dawn and afternoon drives for leopard in the riverine figs, elephant digging the sand for water, and the Northern Five in the scrub. Optional visit to a Samburu village.
A full day on the south bank of the river, working the springs, the crocodile pools and the oryx herds, with a sundowner over the water.
An easy transfer east through Meru town, dropping into the doum-palm country of Meru National Park for an evening drive.
Rhino sanctuary in the morning, river circuits and Elsa's Kopje in the afternoon, in a park you will mostly have to yourself.
A dawn drive on the way out, then south to Nairobi by late afternoon.