Our guides argue about most parks. Not about Meru. This is the one they pick for their own holidays: a park the size of the Mara, crossed by thirteen permanent rivers, that sees fewer visitors in a year than the Mara sees in a week. You get lion in the long grass, huge buffalo herds, both rhinos in the sanctuary, and sightings you do not share with anyone.
Meru is also where George and Joy Adamson set Elsa the lioness free, and visiting her grave on the Ura River still lands, even if you only half-remember the film. Four days is the honest minimum for the distance; you spend two full days inside the park rather than half the trip on the road.
The drive skirts Mount Kenya and drops into the park by late afternoon, in time for a first game drive among the doum palms.
A full day along the Rojewero and Ura rivers looking for lesser kudu, gerenuk, elephant and some of the biggest buffalo herds in Kenya, usually without another vehicle in sight.
Morning inside the fenced rhino sanctuary for near-certain black and white rhino, then an afternoon at Elsa's Kopje and the riverside grave of the Born Free lioness.
A dawn drive on the way out, then back to Nairobi by late afternoon.